Disclaimer: The views and opinions expressed in this blog are mine and mine alone. They do not reflect the views and opinions of the Peace Corps, the US Government, Vice President Biden, or President Obama. Except for any parts that make me seem awesome. Then that is definitely everyone's belief.

Wednesday, June 25, 2014

First training!

The other day (on June 22nd) I had my first real training with a large group of people. I did a training on nutrition and taught them how to cook a meal that included all the food groups. Here, for simplicity and because it makes sense, we teach 3 food groups. Hery fiasana (basically carbs), hery fanorenana (proteins), and hery farovana (fruits and veggies). As I've touched on in past posts often times when people here eat they eat a lot of rice and not much else. The sides are often small and don't in include protein and veggies but usually just one or the other and are proportionally very small compared to the amount of rice. I think the training went very well and believe at least a few people will try and follow some of what I said. It will be a slow process but nothing good ever comes quickly.

Before the training I was very nervous. I had done practice presentations in training and am somewhat comfortable talking with people one on one but not in big groups. It can be very intimidating even in your native language. My mind was racing beforehand. I was looking for a way out. But I slammed down 3 cups of coffee to get my blood boiling and did it. Luckily I had a couple PCV friends and my Malagasy land lady/friend/counterpart/everything there to help me. She continues to be amazing and make my life incredibly easy.

I handled most of the presentation with her stepping in a couple times to clarify when I used some weird phrasing. As a side note, one of the hardest parts about learning a new language is learning the cultural side of it. A lot of times I will say something that I think is clear but the way I structured it is not. She'll re-say it with a few words moved around and everyone gets it. I'll probably never get all of it. But that's the fun of it. Anyway, the presentation was awesome. We talked about nutrition for like 20 minutes then we cooked. I had the rice pre-cooked because they definitely don't need a vazaha to show them how to cook rice. Then we sauteed some greens (called anamalao), onions, tomatoes, and peanuts for protein. It was really good if I can pat my own back and super easy. All of it is stuff you can buy in town for not too much money. And it is all stuff that they will hopefully be growing soon in their gardens. That is the next step.

After the training was over I was buzzing and on cloud nine. I'll contribute ¾ of that to the presentation and the other ¼ to all the coffee. It felt/feels so good have done it. Days like that make all the hard stuff worth it. People were engaged, asking questions, and seemed to be enjoying themselves. There were probably about 50 people there with maybe 20 adults and 30 kids. All of the adults were women of course because most men here do not cook. If even a couple people start doing a few of the things we talked about it will be a great step. I plan on doing these types of trainings seasonally so that we can use different vegetables and such that are in season to give people options when cooking.

I'm just getting started but I can see what my 2 years here should look like and hopefully I will make a small difference. I'm still excited from the training and it's been a few days. I also had a meeting set up between myself and a co-operative in the town next to mine by an NGO that works here. They (the co-op) are focused on farming which is of course what I am here for so I should be working with them a lot. The NGO is called Aga Khan and they too focus on agriculture so we will be working together a lot as well. When I get done with my Peace Corps training in July I have many standing appointments for trainings on all kinds of topics. I really need to bone up on my chicken raising because people across the board want to do that or improve that. Specifically vaccinating the chickens needs to be done more here. When I get done here I'll be an expert in administering vaccines to chickens of all ages.


There is so much work to do here which is very exciting. I have a lot to look forward to. I also am already worried about having enough time to do everything I want to do while I'm here. My ambition on projects is growing so hopefully I can get it all done. It's just nice to have the first big thing under my belt. There will be so many more.    

Long(er) hair don't care

I haven't cut my hair since I've been here. I plan to grow it out. It's also been a while since I've shaved. I'm trying to uphold the time honored Peace Corps tradition of looking slightly homeless during service. But it's hot here. And it's not even the hot season.

The people here are kind of into the beard look because most guys here can't grow much facial hair. It's funny because in the US I actually gro a comparatively small amount of facial and body hair but here I'm Sasquatch. I guess I'm also Sasquatch because I'm about a foot taller than everyone. I think mostly though people see the growing hair and patchy beard and chalk it up to a strange American.

In a way, by not cutting my hair, I am respecting traditions here. The people of my region are the Tsimihety people. “Tsimihety” literally means “no haircut”. It comes from way back when when they were under the control of another stronger tribe and refused to cut their hair in protest. Let's see...non-violent protests and long hair...they're hippies! I knew there was a reason I adapted so quickly. I feel at home.


I actually do feel very much at home here. I of course miss everyone back home and Chipotle but I love it here. I'm so happy this is where I got placed. Both in Madagascar and in Ankazambo. I got set up really well. I'm a very lucky person. But I'm gonna crush some Chipotle when I get back. Let them know to look out for me in 2016. I'm coming!  

Saturday, June 14, 2014

Behavior change is like math...hard

When teaching people things, especially very new things that can seem like radical changes to them, I think it is most important to anticipate any issues that may come up or excuses that may be used to not make a life change. That way you can combat them up front and hopefully take away any excuses people might have. This won't convert everyone but I firmly believe it will help convert those on the fence. Without any clear excuses as to why they can not try something new there are some people who will go ahead and try it. If the change is a good one, and it works, they will be hooked after trying it. It's that getting people to try things that is most difficult. People are creature of habit and moving them out of their comfort zone is like moving a stubborn cow. It takes a lot of tugging and, more importantly, a lot of coaxing.

I have a training coming up in a little more than a week where I will teach the people of my village about nutrition and how to cook a simple nutritious meal. It will not be a hard presentation in many ways. I'm comfortable with the language I will be using. I know exactly what I will be teaching and how I will do it. I have the support of my neighbor who will help me with the training and any language that comes up that I'm not familiar with yet. I already know the turnout will be high. And what I'm teaching are very basic concepts and techniques that most people are at least vaguely familiar with or will be able to grasp quickly. But I am very nervous. This will be the first training I do here within my project framework and area of expertise (or quasi-expertise). It is imperative that is goes well. First of all, obviously, my ego needs it to go well. If this is smooth I'll have confidence going forward for other more difficult and technical trainings. But also, I am starting down the path of behavior change and that is extremely difficult. Getting people to change anything, whether it's the way they eat or the the route they take to work, is almost impossible within your own culture let alone in one you are unfamiliar with and new to. That's what we as volunteers are here for but it is daunting. I have tried my best to take away reasons not to do what I am teaching. The meal I am preparing will be made with things you can buy in town cheaply. It will be very similar to what people are used to eating with a few slight tweaks. The biggest difference will be the proportions of the meal and the diversity of the contents. Nothing in it will be new but the combination of the things might be. There should be no excuse to not at least try it.

It is a fear of mine that I will be here for two years, do a ton of trainings, and nothing will stick. I really don't think that will happen and I am confident in myself but that would be a nightmare scenario. I think about it a lot and a lot of my drive comes from not wanting to let the people here down and from wanting to make sure that when I leave here in April 2016 or so I have actually made a difference for people. This first training is the first step. It will also be very important to follow up with people to see if they are using things. I am going to try to do that by stopping in on people during meals to see what they are making and also by doing a similar training in concept in a few months but with different foods for the different season.


I can't wait for this training. I know it is going to go well and I know some people will leave it and try to implement the things myself and my neighbor teach them. Even if it is just 2 people that will be a success. It will be a baby step down the path to behavior change and community betterment. I'm not sure if there are any other steps you can take.   

Nights here are awesome

As a long time city boy the cycles of the moon really amaze me. When you are out deep, way away from any sort of ambient light you can actually see how bright the moon gets. And how dark it is with out it. On a full moon night the moon is so bright it blots out some of the stars. It's bright enough to read by. Like some one left a light on for you in case you came home late. Shadows are deep and you can see for miles. When it's a new moon it's the darkness that is amazing. You can't see your hand in front of you face. You could hide from a person not five feet from you if you could be quiet enough. That same nice person who left the light on for you is now an asshole who turned off all the lights, changed the position of the switches, and re-arranged the furniture just to fuck with you. Until you walk in complete darkness you have no idea how much you rely on things like peripheral vision. Regular steps over slightly uneven dirt become a perilous walk through a mine scarred battlefield. The sweet spot exists on the nights in the middle. Some nights there is just enough light to walk but all the stars are still there. More clear than you ever knew and some how closer. Finally things like the Milky Way are actually visible and not just something you have to take the planetarium's word for. The constellations are even the same mostly but someone went and turned the Big Dipper upside down. If you get especially lucky it's a bit windy and there are some scattered clouds. You look up through the black outline of a palm tree rustling in the wind and the clouds move quickly so you get an ever changing view into the universe. As they pass over the moon the little bit of light dims and fades as your window to the ether shifts. It's beautiful.    

Tuesday, June 10, 2014

Gifts and Food: Two wonderful things

These are a couple short ones about the culture here. Life is good...

The Malagasy people have a culture of sharing and gift giving that I wish existed in the US and I plan to bring back with me. Here you don't just give gifts on birthdays or Christmas but all the time. And if you have some extra of something you give it to neighbors or friends. Or even if you don't have extra you still share.

If you go somewhere that is far enough away that you have to stay a night it is the culture to bring back gifts. They are called “voandalana”. They can be something as simple as a banana or a loaf of bread. It is more about the idea that you were thinking of everyone when you were gone. If you go far enough that you are in a different region you should try to get something that is unavailable in your region. Or just something that is made in the town you visited that might be more rare in your town. It can actually be overwhelming all of the things people bring you. Just today I got a voandalana from my neighbors aunt who I had never met before. She is in town to visit our doctor (who is an incredible doctor and human being) and she knew there was a new volunteer in town so she brought me a gift. She lives in a town called Maromandia which is a good 6-8 hours from here so she came far with this thing just to give it to some one she has never met and who she might only see a couple times ever. My landlady/neighbor's husband travels a lot for work and he always brings back something. It might be as small as a bag of onions or as big as a pineapple which is kind of expensive.

It is also fun the go to the market when you are out of town and find gifts for people. It gives you an excuse to shop in a place you probably wouldn't normally and to walk around a while to find good, unique stuff. I'm already looking forward to gift shopping when I head to the capital for a training in mid-July.

It is also a big thing here to share things. Whenever I come back from the market I usually have a few snacks or small pieces of bread that I share with people. Kind of like mini voandalana. Another good example is, it is orange season right now. The trees have a ton of fruit on them. They are very cheap at the market. But some of the people I have become friends with in town have some trees they harvest from and on more than one occasion they have come by to get me before harvesting to bring me along and give me some of what they get. They could just as easily sell me some as they are dirt cheap. But they give them instead. It's quite amazing.

We could learn a little from this as Americans I think. It really doesn't matter how big or expensive the gift is. Just that you thought of some one and brought them something.

And here's a little something about fried things:

I think one of my favorite things here so far is the street food and drink. There are so many good things to try. And most of them are breaded and fried. All of them are cheap. If I lived in a bigger town and didn't have to bike/walk so much to get anywhere I might be the first person to move from the US to Africa and gain weight. I guess there's still time to accomplish that goal one deep-fried snack at a time.

If I had to pick a favorite...I couldn't. But the fried bananas are especially delicious. They are breaded and called “mofo katakata”. I can't get enough. When they are still warm, but not molten lava hot, they are incredible. There are also “mofo boulinas” or bread balls. Just fried dough shaped in a ball. Another, who's name escapes me, is an actual piece of bread (usually a piece of baguette) that's been breaded, then deep fried. So, so good. There is also “mofo sake”, fried bread with spicy peppers in it. Or even “mofo crevette”, fried shrimp bread. The collection of fried goodness makes me cry tears of joy sometimes. It's not all fried though. At night people make bruschettes that are awesome and are usually served with a spicy green papaya slaw, although that can differ depending on the region. The real cou de grace though is, in a big town, you can often find some weird stuff. I'm talking cow esophagus, bat, pig insides, eel, you name it. I love trying the weird things. And Malagasy people love a vazaha who tries weird things. There is another member of my group who is even more adventurous than I am. It's pretty fun to walk up to a stall at night and see what is the craziest thing they have available. Sometimes it is great. And sometimes cow esophagus tastes like cow esophagus.

There are also good drinks available. Everything comes with a liberal dose of sugar. Some of the best juice I've ever had has been here with the pineapple juice at my local hotely (kind of like a small local restaurant) being especially good. But it is also served cold and I'm often hot so maybe I have clouded memories. There is also some pretty decent coffee or tea which is great for my caffeine fix. I also make “Cafe Pele” instant coffee at home. It's named after the famous soccer star and there are posters with him in a lot of places advertising it. I guess he is still a big deal here. There is also a tea made from the kola nut that I really like. It's kind of spicy but hard to describe. It's strange too because the kola nut itself is kind of gross but the tea is very good. I've only had it in Antsohihy so far which is a bummer because that is a little far away. But I can always have some whenever I have to hit up the bank or get some more seeds for the garden.

Hopefully for my heart's sake I'll get tired of the deep fried goodness. I actually don't think I eat too much of it but am probably lying to myself. I think I need to go on a run...

  

Food Security

This will be kind of a long post so I apologize in advance...

One of the main components of the project framework for the agriculture sector here in Peace Corps Madagascar is food security. Food security refers to the ability of a person or people to be able to both have access to and be able to acquire food that fulfills their nutritional needs and that they like to eat. Food insecurity is a huge problem in the developing world and here in Madagascar. Because it involves so many different facets it is both an incredibly interesting piece of the project framework and an unbelievably difficult problem to tackle.

There are two types of food insecurity; temporary and chronic. Temporary food insecurity often comes from an event such as a natural disaster or riots that causes people to be unable to get the foods they need. It can also be a seasonal problem in areas that have especially bad dry or rainy/storm seasons. An example of former is the problems faced by people in New Orleans after Hurricane Katrina. The latter is one of the issues that the people of Madagascar face. Temporary food insecurity from a catastrophic event can be tough to plan for because of the unpredictable nature of it. A lot of the preparation for it needs to happen at the governmental or national level and requires planning for worst case scenarios. It also involves understanding the types of catastrophic events that are common to an area and planning accordingly for things that may happen. Sometimes this is done better than other times. Seasonal food insecurity is a little easier to tackle on a local level but still incredibly challenging. Especially with the problems caused by climate change this type of food insecurity will only be increasing and intensifying as the years pass. Chronic food insecurity refers to the inability of a person or people to acquire food on a consistent basis regardless of environmental or other circumstances. This too is a big problem here in Madagascar and is often linked to the seasonal issue.

My belief (and as the disclaimer at the top says all of these are my beliefs and opinions and no one else's) is that food security should be one of the main focuses of all developmental work. I think that the problems caused by chronic hunger and malnutrition lead to many of the other problems that are experienced by people in developing countries. Imagine how hard it is to concentrate when you are hungry. Then extend that over a lifetime. Plus all of the compounded effects of chronic malnutrition. The need for food is one of the most basic needs of human existence and I think that it must be solved before other more complex problems can be. This puts shelter/housing and clean water right there with food security in the hierarchy of problems to be solved. But this is about the food.

What makes food insecurity so hard to solve is that it is a very complex problem with many facets. There is no simple answer or quick fix. That is also what makes it so interesting and an amazing opportunity as a volunteer. There is something for everybody. Pretty much anything you could be interested in can be tackled in a way that enhances food security. There are four dimensions of food security: Availability, Access, Utilization, and Stability.

It should be noted that most of the examples I will use are from the region I am located in. Madagascar is a huge island and the problems faced by people are affected greatly by their region and environment. So of the issues I will describe may be different or non-existent on other parts of the island. Also, different parts of the island struggle with different levels of food insecurity. I can by no means speak for the situation is other regions as I really have no idea. But food insecurity is a problem almost everywhere here in one way or another. It should also be noted that I have been here for a very short time. The things I have observed and heard about are many but there is still much for me to learn. So I can also not claim to be an expert on these things just an extremely interested party. This is a topic I will certainly revisit multiple times so it will be interesting to see how my view of things changes.

Availability is pretty self explanatory but it is that there is literally enough food, and the right types of food, available to feed the population. Here in Madagascar this problem manifests itself in many ways. One of them is in the availability of rice. Rice is the main staple of Malagasy cuisine. The Malagasy people consume more rice per capita than anyone else on the planet. They eat it three times a day everyday. And they do not grow enough of it for everyone on the island. Most years rice needs to be imported. This is an issue for a variety of reasons but for availability it is an issue because the imported rice might not always get to remote areas and be available there. There can also be low availability at the end of the dry season. Rice is a very water intensive crop (although not as water intensive as sometimes thought) and cannot be grown on a large scale during the dry season. When the dry season is ending and people are beginning to plant rice there has not been a harvest for many months. This leaves the region with a large lack of the main staple in peoples diets. Another problem of availability specific to my site is the availability of a wide range of fruits and vegetables. My site is 7km from the nearest town with a market. The foods available in town are rice, beans, greens, tomatoes, oranges, sometimes bananas, and sometimes onions and garlic. That's it. And most of that is in short supply and expensive. Getting to the market makes things a bit better but it isn't stocked with a lot of options either. There is a volunteer in a village 12km further down the road from mine. The people in her town have the same options available in town as the people in mine and 3 times the distance to travel to the market.

These issues do present interesting projects and challenges for volunteers however. There is a technique for growing rice called Systematic Rice Intensification (SRI). It can, and does if done correctly, increase rice yields but 2 or 3 times. Sometimes up to 10 times. It also involves very little extra work and can be practiced by most rice farmers on the island. For those who cannot practice it there is a technique called SRA (think of it as SRI lite) that improves yields greatly as well. We are trained on these as volunteers and it is a big focus of ours. Unfortunately only about 2% of Malagasy rice farmers use SRI. The reasons for this are many but the main on is that it is very hard to create behavior change in people. The Malagasy culture is also one that is wonderfully steeped in tradition and reveres the past and ancestors. This is awesome most of the time but hinders the ability of volunteers to get people to change what they and their ancestors have been doing for a very long time like rice farming. It is a great challenge to do this as a volunteer but one that is extremely important and interesting. If large scale staple crop farming is an interest of yours you can focus on SRI during your service. Lack of diversity presents great opportunities for gardening projects. One of the main things I hope to accomplish at my site is to get as many people as possible into gardening and more importantly get a few important people in the village very good at it so they can continue the education of people long after I am gone.

Access is a more abstract concept but, in my opinion, even more important than availability and maybe the most important part of food security. Access is primarily a financial thing. It means that, assuming there is ample healthy food available in a community, the people of the community can afford it. It can also refer to the ability of farmers to access capital to expand their operations. In Madagascar this is just as big a problem as availability, if not bigger. Using my community as an example, even when there is a variety of foods available at the market most people can not afford it for various reasons. The majority of the food is imported from around Antananarivo. Because of how far we are from the capital and the terrible condition of the roads heading into this region the shipping costs are high which inflates the cost to the people. However, even if things were a bit cheaper, many people here just do not generate enough income to cover their and their family's food needs. When these things are put together you get a typical meal in my town which consists of a lot of rice (it's mostly cheap and it fills you up) with a small side of fish (also cheap but they are very small) or maybe greens. The majority of the time there is not a protein and veggies but one or the other. This leads to malnutrition and general hunger in many children and adults here. There is also the seasonal problem described in the paragraph about availability. At the end of the dry season the rice that is available is more than twice the normal price because of it's scarcity. So then, even the cheap staple crop is too much for a lot of people.

The good news is there are many ways to defeat this issue. The first way, and my favorite as you can tell, is personal or community gardening. On the surface obviously if you grow the food yourself you don't have to spend money to get it. Seeds are significantly less expensive than the finished product. After the first generation of the garden you can save seeds from the crop to use and cut your expenses almost to zero. You also don't have to go anywhere to get it because it is growing close to you. I think the best potential consequence of gardening is that is can turn into an income generating activity (IGA). If done correctly using bio-intensive gardening techniques can create yields that far surpass the needs of a family. Which means they can sell the excess for a profit. Unless the family is very large, in which case they have significantly lowered their expenses. A wonderful side effect of this is that the locally grown .things they produce can be more diverse than what is already available but theoretically less expensive because there are little to no transportation costs. So a person or people gardening on their own can, in the best scenario, create a ripple effect that helps the entire community. Another potential project is helping with money management. Very many people in the developing world and here in Madagascar have very little knowledge about basic personal finances. By helping people, or groups of people, improve these skills you can help them fix problems in their finances where they might be spending too much on something or have an opportunity to cut an expense that they didn't realize. There are also a great many IGA opportunities that people are unaware of. As an example, there was a volunteer here who has finished their term but she helped an organization she worked with who made peanut oil to realize they could and should sell the by-product which is peanut butter. And it is very good. There are a ton of opportunities for volunteers to solve the problem of access in creative ways.

Utilization refers to people's ability to use, in ways that improve and sustain their health, the food that is available and accessible to them. Basically it refers to nutritional knowledge and education. Although many people in the US aren't exactly in top notch physical condition for a variety of reasons, part of education in the US involves learning about food groups and what constitutes a balanced, healthy diet. The debate about the specifics of a good diet could be a huge writing of it's own so there is no need to get in to it but people at least know what kinds of foods should make up their diets. They may not follow it but they know. Here nutritional education is almost non-existent. There is little knowledge of food grouping or basic nutrition like protein or carbohydrates. And so far as I can tell the little that has happened has come from interaction with Peace Corps Volunteers. As I mentioned earlier a meal here consists of a lot of rice and not much else. Part of this is economic. Rice (most of the year) is cheap. But it is largely a cultural and educational thing. The Malagasy love rice and for good reasons. It gets you and keeps you full like veggies or beans really can't, it's cheap, and it has been the staple of their diets going back as far as memory. Rice is very important here. The problem is that people do not understand that they, and especially their children, need more than just rice to grow and function optimally. That is a problem of utilization.

Combating utilization problems primarily takes the form of nutrition and cooking classes. The nutrition classes can introduce the concept of food groups, what groups should be ate at every meal, and how much of each should be on your plate. The cooking classes, in my opinion, are just as important. Once you've introduced all these concepts it is important to show how to implement them. Just doing a simple class on cooking something new does not seem like much but it breaks down the barriers in people that are opposed to new things by showing them simple ways to do the new things that they can handle and expand upon. Plus, if you want to ensure a good turnout for a training, free food is always a good incentive. Some things are universal across all cultures.

The final part of food security is stability. Stability is essentially the ability of people to weather any storm that might come and be able to sustain their food security for an extended period of time, hopefully forever. Instability can come from a variety of places. It can definitely come from seasonal changes like those discussed earlier. For instance, in my region right now it is the dry season. Other than a few light sprinkles it won't rain here for many months. This obviously can cause many problems with food security. It can also come from a sudden loss of employment or an unforeseen sickness. Political unrest too can be a cause. The difficulty with maintaining stability is that it can be hard to see where it will come from and often the best braces against it come from levels much higher than a Peace Corps volunteer. Although it is constantly a hot button issue, unemployment insurance provided by the government is a great example of a stabilizer that is in place in the US and other countries. This is a poor example for a developing country but it illustrates the point. Often great stability is a nationwide or at least region wide project. There are, however, things that can be done on a personal level.

A key for maintaining stability is saving. The recognition that good times ebb and flow and that some of the extra from the good times should be set aside for the bad is really the first step in personal stability. So a task that is an important part of our project framework here is teaching basic financial concepts. Saving money is not practiced on a wide scale here. Most people save none at all. But it can also be the saving of commodities. Saving rice after harvest instead of selling it for instance. Then you can have rice during the more expensive season instead of having to buy it and, if your harvest was good enough and you saved enough, you can sell your excess savings during the expensive times for a profit. Another way to maintain stability is through those ever present gardens (they really are a wonderful development tool). By controlling a portion of your own food supply you protect yourself from any instability that is out of your control. Mostly, tackling instability is an issue of preparation for things out of your control.

Food security, while made up of four dimensions, is really about creating opportunities and programs that work and most or all of the dimensions at the same time. Starting a garden, which must be getting old to read at this point, is a perfect example. On the basic level it works to improve availability and access. The food that is grown is available and accessible to the person or people growing it. But there are many other things that can be done with a simple personal garden. If done correctly, a garden will produce more food than can be eaten at the time of harvest by the growers. This excess food can be sold for a profit. That improves accessibility by increasing money available for other things. The excess food can also be stored using canning or drying techniques. The stored food is now available for a rainy day and thus improves stability. It can also be sold, especially in the case of jam making or fruit drying, and again improve access. When implementing a gardening program it should be combined with an educational program on how to use all of these new foods. So nutrition and cooking classes are a must to make sure that things are utilized correctly. Trainings on canning, jarring, and drying too should be done if appropriate. Seed saving is another skill that should be taught with gardening to help with maintaining the garden at a minimum cost. And once you have new money and food stuffs coming in financial education is important to make sure things aren't wasted and go to the things they are meant for the improve stability and access. This is just one example of a small project that can grow to encompass all of the dimensions of food security and make a real impact on the lives of those we are here to help. This is also very much a best case scenario but there is no reason many of these things can't be done on some level with the most motivated individuals.

I think that food security is one of the biggest problems in the developing world right now. The lack of a good and stable food source is often, in my opinion, the first step in the cycle of poverty that envelopes people in the developing world. It is a great opportunity for a Peace Corps volunteer because it is something that can and should be done on a grassroots level. People need access to education on a personal level that can not be accomplished on a huge level.




Monday, June 2, 2014

Travels by Taxi-Brousse

I just came back from a short trip to see some friends and feel compelled to write about my travel experience. I think the traveling experience is similar in other developing nations so anyone who has lived/worked in a developing nation can probably relate to this.

First of all, where I live is known as the “black hole” amongst Peace Corps volunteers and staff in country. As a Raiders fan living in the “black hole” makes me happy. It's where I belong. Also, as I've stated in past posts, I love where I live. I love my town and the people in it and it is gorgeous here. That being said, it is known as the “black hole” because of how hard it is to get out of. For me the pull comes from two things. One is that, while I was away for a couple days, I greatly missed my site and new friends. I thought about them often and wanted to get back quickly. The second is that the roads to my site are pretty awful.

I live right outside of a town called Befandriana. The next biggest town if you head northeast on the road I live on is Antsohihy. Antsohihy is on a really well maintained road called RN 7. It runs north to south on the island and heads to the capital, Antananarivo. The road between my town and Antsohihy is RN 32. It might be the worst road in the country. Or I guess the worst national route in the country. It is about 100km or so between Antsohihy and Befandriana and, in the dry season, it can take anywhere from 4-6 hours on a taxi-brousse. The wet season is much worse. However, the experience of riding on the taxi-brousse is actually kind of awesome and I'll get to that soon. This is not a wholly negative post.

What makes ride the brousses extra interesting for me is also their size and the amount of people that fit in them. They are very small buses/vans that are made to seat 12-15 people but most of the time have around 30 people in them. As you can imagine seating space is limited. And as a rather large individual I take up a lot of the seating space. Most of the time everyone is very accommodating of me and I get to sit in the front seat next to the driver and one other person. But I do sit in the back rows sometimes and that is comical. At one point during my trip I was in a row meant for 3 people with 5 others and a baby. The nice part was that I hung half my body out the window so everyone could fit which gave me a nice breeze. When there is a stop either for food or to drop off/pick people up getting out and stretching your legs is the most wonderful feeling in the world. It feels like you are the genie in Aladdin and you have finally, after 10,000 years, been set free!

When riding a taxi-brousse as a westerner though, the most important thing is to get over the very western idea that everything must happen quickly and promptly. They have no set time to leave. They leave when they are full. And sometimes when stops are made getting back on the road is done at a leisurely pace. For example in one instance, when I was changing brousses, I got a nice 3 hour rest in a town along my route. Keeping in mind that there is no reason to hurry helps a lot with maintaining a good attitude throughout the process. Already here I have begun to acquire a sense of calm about things that are out of my control. I think that will help me for the rest of my life. Of course there are still frustrations but I find myself being pretty calm when in the past I would not have been. It's a really nice feeling.

It is also fantastic the brousses because you meet so many great people. Everyone is amazed that a vazaha knows Malagasy and is riding a taxi-brousse. It's a great time to practice speaking for a bit and the whole brousse gets a kick out of you speaking. And the look on childrens faces when you pass through a really small town and they see a vazaha riding a taxi-brousse is priceless. It's a mixture of awe, surprise, and sometimes a little fear. Especially if we stop, I get out, and they see how big I am. But usually when I say hello to them the fear goes away. Either that or the run as fast as they can in the other direction. You can't win them all. I love the time I get to spend chatting with people on taxi-brousses. It's particularly nice to meet some one who doesn't know much or anything at all about Peace Corps and to get to tell them all about it.

(In case I haven't explained it before “vazaha” is the Malagasy term for a foreigner and particularly a white foreigner. Most people think all vazahas speak French so they often will speak to me in French at first until they find out I speak Malagasy a little and am American)


If anyone visits me they will have to ride a taxi-brousse at least once to really get the true Madagascar experience. It will be one of the best and most frustrating experiences of your life.